I went back to El Gran Café de la Parroquia, today, on the docks of Veracruz. It’s such an atmospheric place. International, yet local. Classic, historical, yet timeless.
When you ask for one of their lecheros the waiter brings you a glass with the espresso shot in it. As he brings it over to the table he taps the glass with the spoon, and puts it down on your table. The tapping is the signal for the guys who walk around with the two kettles to come over and fill your glass with hot milk. I believe the smaller kettle is filled with coffee, but I am not sure because I never saw it in use. They’ll pour the milk from very high up, with subtle, stylish bravado. It’s a very nice ritual, and makes for splendid tasting coffee, too.
The space is light and open. One wall has this mural on it, which is from 1998, although it looks somehow older.
